이세이 미야케의 패션소재 유형에 따른 시각적 특성 연구

초록

The purpose of this study is to analyze the examples of fashion created by Issey Miyake, an architect of materials, continuously revealing his original philosophy of fashion based on Japan’s traditional aesthetic sense and find out the visual characteristics of different material types formatively. As a study method, this author conducted case study accompanied by reviewing literatures including Korean and foreign books or journals and examining visual materials extracted from fashion-related internet websites, fashion collections, and fashion books. The scope of this analysis covers Issey Miyake’s works from 1989 when he introduced his representative pleats works up until now. Concerning study contents, first, this study explains Issey Miyake’s ideas and his fashion. Second, this author classifies Issey Miyake’s fashion material types into A-POC, the origami type, decometric, and the drape type and analyzes each of their characteristics. According to the results, visual characteristics found in Issey Miyake’s fashion materials in terms of contemporary fashion include lines’ reorganization, flexible transformation, solid texture, and space extension. First, lines’ reorganization is shown as new solid forms and dynamic patterns with the free alterations of lines, and lines’ overlapping and repetition maximize rhythmical movement and visual effect. Second, with flexible transformation, materials’ variability and the human body’s movement lead to the free transformation and extension of forms, and this constant change realizes the expression of new formative beauty. Third, about solid texture, he integrates the unique surface effect with the rich texture expression of material surfaces using texture transformation to pursue the originality of materials. Fourth, concerning space extension, expressing forms adding space to a material itself, he tears down the borders of existing costume designs and extends the range of space. Based on the above analysis results gained by examining the visual characteristics of Issey Miyake’s materials formatively unlike advanced research focusing on his fashion design itself, this author intends to lay theoretical grounds to recognize the value and apply the results as theoretical data to develop materials and extend the areas of creation afterwards. Moreover, this analysis on Issey Miyake’s fashion materials does contribute to considering organic relationship between artistic expressions in fashion therefore, it will be able to provide the perspective of establishing applicability and vision to develop creative materials.

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