기모가공 조건에 따른 트리코 기포 인조 스웨이드의 태와 물성

초록

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricotbased artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand andthe preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20’s and 30’s women experts according to raising cycles. Comfortproperties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical propertieswere measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three handfactors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raisingcycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increasedwith the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabricthickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suedeimproved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vaportransmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cyclesin which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

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